Wednesday, 30 November 2016

Gibbs Reflective Writing

  • Description:

During my first assignment, I focused on the elemental theme, especially on the coastal and beach areas. I collected primary images from my summer holiday from Mexico, these images helped me explore the shapes, silhouettes and colours. I then made fabric samples using the shapes and textures from elements of the images, out of fabrics that I planned on using for my collection such as chiffon, georgette, and satin. For one of my outfits I plan on making, I wanted it to feature plaited straps, therefore to test this with my fabric, I made 5 different samples to see which looked best, alternating the fabrics and colours each time. Another feature I want on my outfit is a woven embellishment, however I was unsure as to what type of weave to do, also what fabric to use. To test my ideas, I drew out a few different weave designs, I then made them out of fabric to see what fabric and style worked best. These experimentations have helped me decide what fabric I would prefer to use, and also the styles I should go with and develop further.

  • Feelings:

At the beginning of the assignment, I wasn’t too sure on the exact route I wanted to take. I was undecided as to whether I should incorporate the element of erosion into my designs, such as using dissolving fabric, and including copper and bronze embellishments, to emulate that of an eroded object. However, I was struggling to find both the ideas for designs for this, and also the primary research to help me with developing ideas. As I was focusing on the beach and the colours such as soft blues and sandy colours, I wanted to stick to a more natural colour palette, however this then made me question whether I was using the right fabric for my garments. Having these problems has helped me develop my ideas, as they have made me question and research further into my concept, which will give me the best outcome.

  • Evaluation:

I enjoyed this project as I have never researched into this subject before. I was able to be creative with everything I was doing, including the designs I was creating, the samples I was making and testing, and the new illustration techniques I have learned. I have never been able to take advantage of creating illustrations as in previous design projects I have always been more focused on the primary research, and then the designs, however it has been really useful to me to try out new techniques, as I may not have explored these myself. I have been able to eliminate what I am most skillful at and what I am not so good at, and have developed the illustration skills I enjoy and benefit most from, but I have also tried to improve at the skills that I am not so strong on. During this project, I was also able to try out projection and draping. For previous projects I have only ever touched on these two skills briefly, however this time I was able to make the most use out of the time I had. I projected my primary images of the beach onto a mannequin so that I could see what sort of colours and textures were standing out. This activity really helped as I felt I had gained more of an idea as to what colours I wanted to use for my collection. I also did draping on the mannequin, I used mainly calico fabric so I could see if a more stiff and heavy fabric would be suitable for my collection, I found that this fabric actually worked really well with the ideas of the designs I had in mind. I would like to do more projection and draping in my second assignment as I think it helped me develop my ideas further, and I was able to see the ideas I had come to life.

  • Analysis:

From this project I have learned that it is important to do as much primary research as possible, as it can have a huge effect on the designs you decide to create and how you can develop ideas. I have also realised that coming across problems, is actually a good thing as it can help question ideas and make ideas change, which was once thought to be set in stone, e.g. not knowing whether to incorporate the element of erosion into my designs, and question was this actually doable; seen as though sourcing primary information, and the cost of embellishments were problems that arose. I have also learned many new skills during this project, which I will take with me onto my future projects, because now I have a clearer understanding of what my strengths and weaknesses are.

  • Conclusion:

For this assignment, there were two parts that had to be completed; a sketchbook and a blog. As I am more creative I enjoy completing the sketchbook, whether that be designing, making samples, or illustrating. However, it is essential that we also keep on top of the blog, and this requires constant thorough analysis of almost everything that I do in the process of the project. I realised that although I was keeping on top of the work that I had to include in the blog, it was just not analytical enough, and this brought my grade down. Therefore, for my next assignment, I know that what I mainly need to focus on is the blog, to make sure it is analytical and as thorough as I can be, in order to achieve the highest grades.

  • Action Plan:

To improve on the mistakes I made on this project, for the next one, I will definitely make more of an effort to keep adding to my blog, and to make it as analytical as possible. I will also collect more primary images in order to develop the colours and textures I want to use in my collection. Furthermore, I want to refine my concept so that I can be more focused on what my collection is about.
Extended Primary Research- 30th November 2016

During the October half term, I visited Lagos, a small town in the South of Portugal. Whilst I was here I thought it would be the perfect opportunity for me to collect more primary images of the coastal area. I believe these images will help me curate more ideas in terms of texture and colour palette, and the types of shapes and silhouettes I want my collection to be. 





Tuesday, 22 November 2016

Sustainable Fashion Brands- 22nd November 2016



Lali

  • Lali is an Australian sustainable and Eco-friendly clothing brand. 
  • Most of their garments are made out of 100% Rayon and the styles are simple yet chic.
  • Prices range from $100-$220, however they can be paid in smaller instalments. 
  • This is the type of brand that I want my collection to resemble, sleek, chick and eco-friendly.
  • One of the pieces from their collection, grey top and trousers made from 100% Rayon.

  • 'The fabric used for this garment is naturally derived, sustainable and ethically sourced. All garments are designed and made in Australia.'

    H&M Conscious Collection
    In 2011, H&M released their new Eco-friendly Conscious Collection, which included affordable items made from natural fibres such as Lyocell, Cotton and recycled materials. In 2014, they released a new party wear collection which included recycled or organic sequins, beads, leather and silk. There were dresses, maxi skirts, tuxedo jackets and military style jackets. All garments had natural tones such as ivory, blush pink and light grey. This collection is an excellent example of how sustainable fashion can be just as fashionable as cheap, throw-away garments. When you say a garment has been made out of recycled fabric, immediately, the first thing that comes to mind is some type of garment made out of patchworks. Therefore, I aim to make my collection just as fashionable so it appeals to people of all ages.




    In March 2016, Vogue released an article stating that H&M will be creating a bridal range, a bridal conscious collection, so it appeals to the bride who wants to look as beautiful as well as conscious. It involves brides dresses, bridesmaid dresses and wedding guest outfits. All garments are made from organically sourced natural fabrics, finished with beautiful embellishments. The colour palette is neutral, including ivory, cream, blush pink, peach and light grey. For the wedding guest, there are garments featuring beautiful floral prints to add some colour.The shapes from this collection are very organic, perfect for a summer wedding to keep cool yet still looking chic. I will take inspiration from this collection, by looking at the shapes and silhouettes used as they appeal to me for my collection. The new H&M collection doesn't only sell garments, it also has different accessories on offer such as shoes, earrings, bags and sunglasses. Below are some examples of the collection;














Design Research Development- 22nd November 2016

Sustainability

I have done more further research into the types of fabrics that I want to use for my collection. So far I want to use plant based fabrics such as linen and cotton. For this research I have looked at 'Fabric For Fashion The Complete Guide Natural and Man-made Fibres by Clive Hallett and Amanda Johnston. This book explores different fabrics such as animal fibres, plant fibres and man-made fibres. I have looked into the properties of linen which are;
  • Tough (12 times stronger than cotton).
  • Can be silky in texture
  • Embodies a springy freshness
  • Classic
  • Relaxed
  • Crisp


I also looked into the properties and characteristics of cotton, and the different types of cotton there are. 
  • Luxury cotton: tends to be more desirable because it can withstand additional combining processes that in turn will make it smoother and finer to the touch.
  • Organic cotton: "organic agricultural methods rely upon crop rotation and the use of natural enemies, such as ladybirds, to suppress harmful insects, rather than the use of agrochemicals, artificial fertilisers and other non-toxic persistent chemicals."



Other Plant Fibres

  • Banana Fibre: strong and versatile, can resemble linen, bamboo and even silk. Banana fibre is produced in Asian countries such as Japan and Nepal. For commercial production, there are two different ways; enzyme retting and chemical processing. Enzyme retting can be quite a slow process but it isn't harmful towards the environment, and chemical processing is fast and causes pollution. 
  • Bamboo Fibre: has characteristics that reduce greenhouse-gas emissions and re-enrich land. Also can be used for sportswear because of its anti-static characteristics. 
  • Hemp Fibre: Mainly used for biodegradable plastics and biofuels. The fibres are strong and durable, resist mould have good absorbing and offer protection against ultraviolet light. A wedding dress has been made by Sanyukta Shrestha out of hemp. The London College of Fashion combines a sustainable approach with hand crafted luxury.



Design Research Development- 22nd November 2016

Sustainability 

I have decided to look at three topics to focus my research on; sustainability, erosion and pollution. I have started researching thoroughly into sustainability using online sources and information from various books. The first book I have looked at is 'Sustainable Fashion Past, Present, and Future by Jennifer Farley Gordon and Colleen Hill. This book discusses many issues related to sustainability including disposable fashion, sustainable fashion brands, sustainable fabrics and dyes used to colour the fabrics and how they can be harmful to the wearer and the environment. We are living in an era where it is fashionable to buy cheap clothes and wear them just once, however things are starting to change and people are starting to want to buy high quality pieces that will last. This is what I aim to convey through my collection. This book features examples of designers who have used sustainable fabrics or sustainable methods of making garments;  
Zero Waste YEOHLEE 2009.
Made this sarong out of pieces of black organza and stitched them together, to show its zero waste construction




Slow and Steady Wins the Race (Mary Ping) "Postal" bag, unbleached cotton canvas, Fall 2002 USA



Using Synthetic Dyes

  • Dyes poisoning the environment, 'Toxic Threads: The Big Fashion Stitch-Up found that a number of popular fashions had "residues of a variety of hazardous chemicals". Out of the 141 garments that they bought and tested two were positive for carcinogenic amines associated with azo dyes, and both were from fast fashion retailer Zara.' These chemicals are harming the environment during the dying process, they could also be harmful towards the wearer. Therefore, precaution needs to be taken when dying fabrics, and brands should consider alternative ways of dying their fabric that aren't harmful. When I am deciding what fabrics I want to use for my collection, I will take into consideration the dying methods used.